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Rolf’s Place

Picture: Rolfs Place Rolfs PlaceThere is no shortage of awesome places to eat in and around Nairobi, with new additions to the culinary scene popping up at an almost daily basis. I have written quite a bit about this in previous blog posts, notably Wining and Dining in Nairobi, and City Guide to Nairobi, and according to my blog stats, readers love those posts, so obviously, restaurants in Nairobi is a subject that attracts people’s attention.

Having been a terrible blogger lately, I finally got some inspiration back today, after visiting Rolf’s Place, in Ongata Rongai. This place does not in any way have the fame it deserves. Being an avid explorer of the restaurant scene in Nairobi throughout the past decade, even I had not heard about it until a few weeks ago.

With my parents spending the first 4 months of their retirement in Kenya, my girlfriend and I are making a point out of showing them places you won’t necessarily find in the tourist guidebooks. As a friend had warmly recommended that we check out Rolf’s Place, we googled it, called and made a reservation (which turned out to be a smart move, as we saw several guests without reservations getting turned away).

Getting there is a pretty quick and pleasant drive on a Sunday, as there isn’t too much traffic, and the road is smooth until the last few hundred meters. After branching off from Magadi Road, the road gets a bit bumpy and dusty, and then, suddenly, you are there!

Rolf’s Place lies on top of a cliff, overlooking a small river valley, so needless to say, there is a quite splendid view from the restaurant. The only way to get there is across the suspension bridge, so already there, you get a clear indication that this is going to be an experience quite out of the ordinary.

The building – a small and exquisit hotel in addition to the restaurant – has a very obvious touch of classic German architecture, mixed with some local design that inevitably involves Kitengela glass! Picture: icon smile Rolfs Place

The owner and chef, Mr. Rolf Schmid, from Germany, is ever-present with the guests, ensuring a strong personal touch, and the characteristic German perfectionism and attention to detail.

When the waiters tell you that the Zanzibari Coconut Fish Soup is the best in Nairobi, that is no exaggeration, and skipping it would be a tragic loss for any first-time visitor. The restaurant has its own fish pond, so their fish is as fresh as it gets! The chicken à la Kiev is absolutely delicious too!

Although I was not really in the mood for dessert, an accidental look at the menu triggered my addiction to tiramisu. Fortunately, the one they have, ranks among the best I have ever tasted! Except for the fact that they were a bit slow to bring the coffee, the service was also close to perfect.

They also have hotel rooms that are not even very expensive, a nice swimming pool, a steam and a sauna. Doubtlessly something on the to-do-list for a weekend in the nearby future.

DHL = Delivery Happens Leisurly!

Less than 3 weeks to clear another zero-rated consignment. That must be a new record for DHL!

Immediately after the Kyoto Flash Mini solar torchlights, that DHL took a month to get through Customs, we were receiving the first samples of the new Kyoto Village Charger: A solar panel with 4 charging outlets. A simple, yet ground-breaking product for villages without electricity, where people today have no choice but to send their mobile phones with a matatu to the nearest town for charging.

With more than half of Kenya’s 39 million inhabitants living in such places, there is a huge market for entrepreneurs setting up micro-businesses where they charge phones KSh 20 for each charging, and those entrepreneurs are our target customers. If we can reach 10 000 of them in Kenya, that is already good business. Now imagine what the rest of East Africa will be then!

Already while the chargers were on the way, I had reminded DHL that zero-rated goods need to be bullied through Customs, as those guys take it as a personal attack on them when you bring in something for which there is no VAT or import duty.

Of course, DHL assured me that this time, things would be a lot faster, and that they had learnt a lesson from the last round with the solar torchlights.

Things did go a bit smoother this time, though. No mess-ups like “ooops, were they supposed to be zero-rated?” That does not mean that anything they did was fast, let alone well-executed!

DHL Kenya has a switchboard where it’s not possible to put people directly through to someone. Instead, callers are directed into an automated queue where the first available attendant picks up the phone. That can get amazingly annoying when you have to call them up to several times in a day and you need to get hold of specific persons!

The fact that the people doing customer service in DHL are extremely friendly and helpful (and they are, indeed), doesn’t help when the general service is dreadful. The fact that people who promise to call you back consistently fail forget to do so, does not add positively to the customer experience, either!

After 2 weeks of daily excuses, my patience was worn out. Having given up on simple and polite pushing, I repeated the same threat that I had used the last time: If the consignment wouldn’t clear by next morning, we would go to court, get a court order forcing Customs to release it, and that we would send the invoice for the lawyer’s fees to DHL.

That apparently worked. The next day, it was all through, and they promised to deliver the package early that same afternoon. After repeating my contact info to them, I crossed my fingers that they would bring it, as it was a Friday, and I wanted it before the weekend.

When I called again in the late afternoon to ask what had happened, they claimed the driver had tried to contact me on some number that was complety different from the one I had given them earlier in the day.  They then promised me that the delivery would happen in the evening.

When I called again after the weekend, they still had the wrong contact information. Apparently, repeating the correct details twice hadn’t been enough.

Again, they promised to deliver it in the morning. Then in the afternoon, and finally in the evening. Of course, each time called, I was sent through the same switchboard queue about 5 times before getting the right person. Each time, I also had to repeat the contact information again, as they still couldn’t get it right.

When I called on Tuesday morning, the word “please” was long ago wiped out of my vocabulary, and I was communicating exclusively through direct orders. I instructed them to assign a driver specifically to deliver my consignment only, and told them to direct him to a nearby petrol station at a specific time, as finding the correct address was obviously too much of a challenge.

As I still hadn’t received any phone call by the time I had instructed him to be there, I called DHL again. Unsurprisingly, he was there, and was trying to call me on the same, wrong number again. Hoping that they would have gotten it right after all those attempts, was obviously too ambitious!

Finally, I drove over to the petrol station where the driver was waiting. He followed my car back, and was finally ready to offload.  At least, he was a friendly and jovial guy, just like his colleagues at the DHL Customer Service. That made it a bit easier to laugh off their messed up routines, the uselessness of their systems and the unbelievable delays.

Without exception, the people in DHL Kenya have been very friendly, always ready to assist. That doesn’t help much when every other aspect of their services is useless beyond belief. Unfortunately, there is nothing in this world that could ever get me to use DHL again, unless I am left with absolutely no choice. Fortunately, there is also UPS!

Mashujaa Day – Heroes Day

Picture: Mashujaa Day Mashujaa Day   Heroes DayToday’s Mashujaa Day (Heroe’s Day) was a first-ever in Kenya. What used to be Kenyatta Day, a day dedicated to the admiration of former president Jomo Kenyatta, in all modesty declared by the latter himself during his reign, is now a National Day honouring all the heroes that fought for the freedom, independence and progess of the nation, before and after independence.

The new constitution, promulgated on August 24th earlier this year, did away with a lot of the previous public holidays, including Moi Day, a former public holiday that ex-president Daniel arap Moi once declared to honour himself. Left are  3 National Days: Madaraka Day, Heroes Day and Jamhuri Day, commemorating respectively the day Kenya obtained self-rule, the heroes that have fought for the country, and the day when Kenya achieved full independence.

Like most public holidays in most countries, this means an opportunity to call it a night a bit later than usual the night before, and to sleep longer the next day.

I could of course have gotten up early in the morning, to hear the President’s speech and see the accompanying shows at Nyayo Stadium, but those things generally come out even better on TV, so that became my choice.

After some nice and relaxed morning hours, the new Mashujaa Day turned out to be an excellent occasion for enjoying some nice drinks and nyama choma (roasted meat), Kenya’s national dish.

Few people seemed to be aware in advance of what the new National Day was actually about, until TV started showing the footage from the official celebrations.

To me, a day dedicated to the heroes that have fought for the country, sounds like a far better idea than one dedicated to the admiration of a quite benevolent former dictator, who had declared that day for people to admire him.

A relaxed day, watching the President speaking on TV, then meeting friends for drinks and nyama choma, is a perfect fit with the Nairobian way of life, and quite probably one of the best ways imaginable to celebrate a national day. Apparently, a lot of others agreed, as the places we went were crowded.

Next on is Jamhuri Day, on December 12th, commemorating Kenya’s independence. I certainly won’t wait until then for the next round of choma, but I’m looking forward to it nevertheless! Picture: icon smile Mashujaa Day   Heroes Day

Mobile warfare in Kenya

Picture: Kenya mobile operators Mobile warfare in KenyaWhenever a text message pops  in these days, I pray it is not more spam from the operator. Too often, it is.

Safaricom and Zain seem to have gone crazy with their sms advertizing, and there is no way to stop them! I have no idea what Yu and Orange are up to, but I doubt they are any better.

Mobile wars in Kenya have reached feverish temperatures, to the benefit, but also to the nuisance of the users. Sure, I’m thrilled that calling rates are coming down, but do they really have to send me messages about it every day?

Seemingly irresistible offers like “top up now, and get 100% bonus airtime” have been filling up message inboxes across the country for a while now. Of course, these offers are tricks with little real value, as the bonus airtime expires after a few days, and can only be used within the same network, or other limitations making the offer virually useless.  I spent 3,5 years setting up and advertizing such promotions, as VP Sales Africa in Vyke Communications, so I am only too familiar with the real value of such offers!

Customers aren’t stupid, though. Although people at first get impressed by such offers, they quickly see through them. The problem is that once all the providers start doing it, everyone gets caught up in a viscious cycle that it’s hard to break out from. Therefore, I expect the daily sms spam about “fantastic offers” and chances to “win millions” to continue for the foreseeable future.

The good news is that behind the facades of “fabulous” promotions, there is a significant real drop in calling rates as well. Finally, Kenyans are seeing the effects of the increase from 2 to 4 mobile operators! The ongoing teeth-and-claws competition is good news for the users after all, as calling rates have dropped radically. On Zain, intra-network calls are down to KSh 1 (€ 0,01), and KSh 3 (€0,03) to other networks.

What I really love, though, is the crazy drop in international calling rates (of which I am also being reminded almost daily by SMS).  USA, Canada, India and China is down to KSh 3 (€0,03) per minute on Zain, and no international destination costs more than KSh 30 (€0,3).

The other operators are likely to follow suit soon, and most likely rates on international calls will come even further down. In a development that has swept across the African continent, most mobile operators have dropped their charges on international calls down to flat rates of €0,15-€0,2.

During my time as VP Sales Africa in Vyke Communications, it was always a worst-case scenario materializing whenever that development spread to more African countries, as our business was based on providing international calls at lower rates than the mobile operators. Of course, that development was unstoppable across the continent, as liberalization, deregulation and tough competition became the mantras of every African government but a few.

Kenya is finally catching up on this development, and I expect international calls to be between KSh 15 and KSh 20 on all mobile operators within a year.

As the costs of mobile calls are being pushed downwards and margins are dropping, operators are still milking the market on internet connectivity, and that’s where I hope to see the next price war.

My other hope is that Zain and Safaricom will someday soon stop spamming me with text messages about their “amazing” promotions!

DHL + Customs = a lethal mix!

While I was successfully bullying the dreaded container of Kyoto Box solar cookers through Customs in Mombasa, people from the same useless government institution were doing their best to delay our business in Nairobi.

A consignment of our latest product, the Kyoto Flash Mini torchlights is currently on the way to Kenya by sea.  As we wanted to have samples out in the market well ahead, we had 200 of them flown in with DHL.

As we deal with solar energy, the products we bring in are 0-rated (no import duty and no VAT), as the government wants to promote the growth of renewable energy in Kenya. The Customs Service Department (note the irony of including the word “service” in that name!), on the other hand, perceive it as a direct and malicious attack on them whenever someone actually attempts to bring in something 0-rated.  Information about how to proceed to actually get the 0-rating is also meticulously withheld, to prevent people from using those procedures, that is, unless they are ready to pick a fight.

When the torchlights arrived in Kenya, about a month ago, the first encounter with Customs was that a C52 form is required.  For the purpose of delaying things, they require that the form is stamped with the company seal. A signature is not enough. My boss being out of the country, and the stamp being at his home already delayed thing by a few days, as I was informed about that requirement on a Friday afternoon. No chance to get it stamped and delivered until Monday. Thanks, dear stoneage people in Customs. I love you too!

Monday: DHL of course did not contact me in the morning, but I had expected the need for following up anyway.

“I will need a bankers cheque”, the lady at the imports department told me.

“For what?”

“KSh 83 000 for import duty”

“Did you read the accompanying documents? These are solar products. They are 0-rated!”

“Really? I didn’t know that..”

No more feedback from DHL that day or the next day, and no meaningful answer to be extracted during my follow-ups.  On Wednesday somebody called me to confirm whether I was contesting the import duty on the shipment.

“No. There’s no import duty – or VAT for that sake, so there’s nothing to contest. Can you kindly get this cleared and deliver it?”.

He said he would get back to me, which he actually did towards the end of the day. Quite impressive indeed!

To get the excemption from the import duty, an excemption PIN from the Kenya Revenue Authority was required. For something that is supposed to be 0-rated in the first place!

It took them until the next Monday to get the excemption PIN (pushed by frequent, and increasingly angry follow-ups from side).

From there, it took them another full 3 weeks to get the shipment cleared, and it would probably have taken 3 months had I not been on the phone with them every day during that time.

By that time, I had learnt that the only thing that move things through Customs, is ruthless bullying. That may include sitting down at people’s offices, refusing to leave before you get what you want, and even storming offices, interrupting meetings, to avoid queuing all day. The only thing you cannot do, is to respect the procedures, because you’ll be stuck forever!

Finally, my last piece of patience was gone. I told my contact person in DHL that I believed someone in Customs was deliberately sabotaging the entry to extract a bribe, and that I perceived DHL to have done nothing to push it through.  I gave them a deadline until the end of the day to have the shipment cleared, failure to which we would involve a lawyer, at DHLs expense, to get a court order forcing customs to release the torchlights, as they had no authority to hold 0-rated goods for that long in the first place.

Whether the threat really worked, or whether Customs had simply decided to get serious, processing the entry in “only” 3 weeks, I will probably never know. The next morning, though, I received a call with pleasant news from DHL: The torchlights were through Customs, and were going to be delivered later the same day.

I was hardly surprised when I called them again later in the afternoon, wondering where my package was: “Sorry, we can’t deliver it until tomorrow morning!”.

No delivery, and no phone call the next morning, so I called them again.

At first, they insisted that someone had tried to deliver it in the morning, but that noone was there.

“Why didn’t anyone call?”

“Your phone was off.”

“It has been on the whole time. That phone number is never switched off, so I doubt he even tried calling! Now, get him to turn around wherever he is, and bring me my stuff ASAFP!!”

“OK. can you please give me your address and telephone number, sir?”

That question didn’t exactly add to the credibility of their claims: So they had tried to deliver it, I hadn’t been there, yet they weren’t even sure whether they had the correct address or phone number!

By the afternoon, I still hadn’t received anything, so I called again, this time demanding to speak with a manager.  The gentleman in the other end was obviously reading the same statements in the system as the lady I had previously spoken with. First he repeated the same claims, that they had tried delivering it to some address that they weren’t even sure of. When I asked what address that was, he told me he couldn’t see that in the system, so I really wonder where, or if at all, they had tried delivering it.

“We can deliver it between 7 and 8 tonight, sir”.

“That will be too late.  I won’t be in”.

“OK, then we will deliver it tomorrow”.

“This has already taken more than 4 weeks, and DHL did nothing to push this through Customs! We have customers waiting for the samples, and I’m not willing to lose another day. Get a driver to pick up the package now, and send him over! I want it here within 30 minutes!”

“All our drivers are out, sir”

“Then get a taxi!”

“Will you pay that, sir?”

“Are you joking?! This is a door-to-door delivery, that you have taken 1 month to bring in, that you have failed twice to deliver when you said you would, and now you want ME to pay extra? GET IT ON THE ROAD, NOW! AT *YOUR* EXPENSE!!!”

Less than 45 minutes later, the taxi driver called, because he couldn’t find the way, so I had to meet him at the nearest petrol station.

My threat about getting a court order, forcing Customs to release the shipment, wasn’t an empty threat, by the way. After discussing this with several lawyers, I have realised that it’s a very real option, and probably the best one. Attempting to deal with Customs through the ordinary channels is a massive waste of time when bringing in zero-rated goods anyway! This time, it was a door-to-door delivery, so storage costs while clearing Customs were covered by DHL. For containers through the port, a 1-month delay means thousands of dollars in demmurage and CFS storage costs, more than the lawyer fees required to get a court order.

This was my second experience with Customs, and a 3rd shipment is already stuck with them. I had always found it a bit weird that any imported goods are so expensive in Kenya. Having seen how Customs operate, I am no longer surprised, as I now know what it takes to bring in anything!